|  Journalism         
             Was Ramona Real? How a Book Became More Than a Legend 
            Cut to Bob Dale  - An off-camera chat with the bow-tied veteran of San Diego television 
            Salvation Row - An uneasy Episcopalian hears the word on Imperial Avenue 
            Lester Bangs -The Hardback 
  Dots on the Map - Heading East on Old Highway 80 
            Silents Were Golden - Why early filmmakers zoomed in on San Diego 
            Where Wild Things Were- Something is lost when something is built 
            One for the Zipper- The quintessential carnival ride must bring chaos to the calm center of the soul 
            Deadhead Redux - No  one knows for sure why Grateful Dead fans have such a drive to communicate with  each other but they do-and they’ve turned Blair Jackson and Regan McMahon’s “The  Golden Road” into the most successful fanzine in the history of the form. 
            The Last Anniversary - An Altamont Memoir 
            Desolation Row -The lonesome cry of Jack Kerouac 
            Faster Than a Speeding Mythos: Superman at 50 - Superman at 50: The Persistence of a Legend 
  When Art is No Object -The Eloquent Object - At the  Oakland Museum, Great Hall, through May 15. 
            “He Wasn’t Dying to Live in L.A.” - Intrepid Journalist’s Last Dispatch Before His Collapse 
            Search for Honesty in Post-war Life - Plenty 
            Armageddon Averted: Where Will You be on August 16. 1987? - Inside Art Goes to the Frontiers of the Mind 
            Of Speckle-Faced Rats and Supernovas - Michael McClure 
            George Coates - The Physics of Performance and the Art of Iceskating  
            No Escape from the SOUNDHOUSE - Maryanne Amacher 
            A Pynchon's Time 
            Grants - State of Art/Art of the State 
            Poetry from Outside the Pale - Allen Ginsberg 
            Once Upon a Time - In Berkeley 
            The poet from Turtle Island - Gary Snyder 
          Noh Quarter 
            Joyce Jenkins and the Language Troubles 
            Philip Whalen
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            One  for the Zipper  
            The quintessential carnival ride must bring chaos to the  calm center of the soul 
          Story By ROGER ANDERSON 
            July 13, 1989  
           
            My mode of arrival must decide the matter, 
so I ride off on the bucket.  
Seated on the bucket, my hands on the handle, 
the simplest kind of bridle.  
I propel myself with difficulty down the stairs; 
but once downstairs my bucket  
ascends, superbly, superbly;  
camels humbly squatting on the  
ground do not rise with more  
dignity, shaking themselves under  
the sticks of their drivers. 
Through the hard frozen streets  
we go at a regular canter; often I  
am upraised as high as the first  
story of a house; never do I sink 
as low as the house doors. 
— Franz Kafka, "The Bucket Rider" 
            
            photos by 
            Dave Allen 
             
          It takes a long time to talk myself into going on the Zipper  — a lot longer than it takes me to talk Rob into going with me. I've got to  hand it to him: even though he went through the extreme pain of passing a  kidney stone a couple of days ago, he's game. The only reason I can cite for my  hesitation about going on the damn thing (apart from general cowardice and a  rooted distrust of outsized mechanical devices) is that the first time I rode  it, almost 20 years ago, I truly believed I was going to die. The Zipper was a  new wrinkle on the midway: this big, gleaming apparatus that looked like a  gigantic fan belt, with body-hugging cages attached along its length. While the  fan belt and the cages (which also revolved on their axes) went whirling around  two enormous cogs, the entire length of the mechanism did loop-the-loops.  Einstein himself would have been hard-pressed to plot the relative motions  involved. Toward the end of my ride in 1970 (and the unit Rob and I are about  to enter, all rusted and ramshackle, could very well be the selfsame one), the  car I was strapped into seemed to come completely free from its attachments;  for a fraction of a second, I was convinced that I was flying through space,  that I was about to end my life as a grisly smear on the blacktop. But when the  ride came to a stop a moment later, I saw that the ride was intact, nothing out  of the ordinary had happened; the operator opened the cage, and I climbed out  and went about my business. 
                      That feeling of coming completely unmoored, of hurtling  toward death, has never entirely left my central nervous system. So even now —  as Rob and I fork over our four coupons apiece (cash equivalent: two bucks) and  are loaded into one of the cages — my pulse fibrillates, and I have a powerful  urge to call the whole thing off. But rap music pounds out of the Zipper's  speaker system at such high decibels that I'd just about have to scream my head  off to catch the attention of the large, serene-looking black fellow shutting  the cagework door in on us; the skinny, sunburned white guy manning the  controls and bopping to the beat seems oblivious to everything except the music  and the esoteric knobs and levers poking out of the panel in front of him. So I  decide — rather bravely, I think — to tough it out. 
            
             
            Once the door has been latched into place, the cagework car  seems awfully cramped; plastic-cushioned metal surfaces and abutments are  intruding into our soft tissues from just about every angle. On the other hand,  this gives you the feeling that the machine has a firm grip on your body so you  won't be permitted to just thrash around inside the cage willy-nilly and get  your skull bashed open once the ride starts whirling. Time now to puzzle over  the absence of a control wheel that I could swear I remember as a component of  the cage interior back in '70; my memory is that by operating that wheel, the  rider caused the car to revolve on its axis — or not revolve, depending on your  preference. No wheel here, though. 
             
            "I get it," I say as the car lurches, and we go up  a notch and then stop as a couple of kids are packed into the next cage.  "Yeah, I see. You don't need the wheel, you just rock the car back and  forth with your weight till it starts tumbling around." 
             
            Rob looks at me funny — he doesn't have the faintest idea  what I'm babbling about — and suddenly the cage goes shooting up to the top of  the conveyer-belt apparatus, stops, and we're swinging back and forth high  above the ground. 
          "This is cool:' I say. "This is okay. This isn't so  bad. See, the fact that you're inside this cage makes you feel more  secure." 
             
            "Right," Rob says. "The cage keeps you packed  in nice and tight so that if the ride goes flying apart, you'll get crushed to  death first thing instead of being thrown free." 
             
            "Now you're getting the idea." 
             
            As the ride moves up and down and around by notches so that  passengers can be strapped into each car, Rob and I absently rock the cage back  and forth. Then, rather abruptly, the Zipper takes off full blast, and we're  swooping at fearsome velocities through space. We both instinctively stop  rocking. 
             
            "I find myself suddenly becoming interested in the  concept of structural engineering," Rob yells. 
             
            "Right:' I yell back. "For instance, the spot  welding on these joints outside the car looks like kind of a rush job. Also,  have you noticed how similar these cages are to the utility elevators you see  on construction sites?" 
            A moment later we lurch to a stop at the top of the belt.  "Really," I say again, "being up here isn't so bad." 
            "Yeah, we're farther away from the speakers, so the rap  music isn't quite as loud." 
             
            Suddenly the Zipper kicks into action again, this time in  the opposite direction. 
             
            "If this knocks loose another kidney stone, I'll never  forgive you:' Rob warns. 
             
            "Think of it as a giant salad spinner, a salad spinner  made out of rusted metal," I tell him. "It's like you take it in each  direction so as to make sure all the water gets thrown off." 
             
            Finally we decelerate through a stop-and-start rotation back  to ground level, the black guy stills the car's residual movement with one hand  and unlatches the cage door with the other, and Rob and I hobble down the ramp.  I'm a bit dizzy but euphoric that I've managed to emerge unscathed from the  huge and mysterious contraption. 
            
             
            They don't call it the midway anymore — another example,  probably, of the way language is constantly being stripped of its old  resonances and cultural associations and forced into an increasingly literal  frame. After all, who knows what a midway is these days? To most the word means  a World War II naval battle in the South Pacific or a defunct drive-in theater  in Ocean Beach — hardly images likely to attract modem-day thrill-seekers. So  now it's called FUN ZONE; at least, that's the rubric emblazoned on an orange  banner that flutters above the amusement rides at the Del Mar Fair. 
             
            Still, that which we call a midway by any other name is the same  astonishing proposition: mammoth machines, aluminum and steel pistons and  flywheels  and loops and trailing chains  with seats on the ends of them and soaring cagework, incredible masses of metal  zooming through the air, with light bulbs and weird filigree barnacling every  surface with exotic symbolism ... gigantic portable mechanisms that were torn  down in the last city, collapsed onto trailers and schlepped to this spot and  reassembled; and a little later, the first fairgoers of the year started  trickling in, paying two bucks a pop to let some guy strap them into a cage or  teetery car and swing them through the air in unthinkable arcs and parabolas  and ellipses like so many Alan Shepards bound for suborbital flight — not to  win the space race or close the missile gap or even come up with a safer way to  construct an automobile, but (to put it in the concisest  terms) to make waves in their inner-ear fluid. 
             
            The inner ear tells your brain which position your body is  in with relation to gravity. It might best be described as Mother Nature's  template for the carpenter's level. When an amusement ride sends you flying  through space in a series of interlocking trajectories, even if you're smart  enough to keep your eyes closed (but stupid enough to get on the ride in the  first place), the fluid in your inner ear canal goes spattering, scrambling  your body/space orientation and, presumably, providing you with a thrill that's  well worth the money you spent for the privilege. In a very real sense, then,  those glittering, multi-ton machines you see every year at the fair were  designed for the sole purpose of creating these almost microscopic neural  tsunamis. 
             
            The potential of self-driven machines to wreak such stimulating  havoc in the inner ear is a kind of ironic consolation prize of the Industrial  Revolution. It must have become evident at a fairly early point — perhaps as early  as Thomas Fulton's historic 1807 steamboat ride up the Hudson River — that  being powered through space was not just convenient and profitable but also  fun. That's why, today, we have not only airplanes and busses and trains and  space shuttles but dirt bikes and racing cars and carnival rides. 
             
            Indeed, a bonus value of the Fun Zone is that it is, in many  ways, a traveling demonstration of the basic principles underlying the  Industrial Revolution, preserving them, as it were, in a drop of amber. You can  look at most amusement rides and easily  trace their design origins to certain  19th-century industrial innovations. Who, after all, was the true inventor of  the bumper car, if not Henry Ford? By the same token, the roller coaster is  nothing more than steam-rail travel with its "travel" component  eliminated (you don't really go anywhere) and its bothersome vicissitudes (I  have the pleasure of giving the word its literal application) exponentially  enhanced. The first Ferris wheel was constructed for the 1893 Chicago World  Expo by an American bridge builder named George Washington Gales Ferris, who,  strangely enough, saw his brainchild as America's response to the engineering  challenge posed by the construction of the Eiffel Tower in Paris. 
             
            A bit less impressively, the fundamental concepts behind  some rides were expropriated from children's playgrounds -another sphere in  which the inner ear has traditionally received a more or less salubrious  workout. Everywhere you look during your visit to the Fun Zone, you see swings  and slides and — yes -merry-go-rounds puffed up to Brobdingnagian proportions  and driven by powerful engines. A popular ride called Pirate, for example, is  modeled on the swing. This is not to say that going on it is child's play,  although at rest it looks deceptively low-key. A huge piece of metal shaped  like a sailing ship is suspended by shafts; people are seated in rows across  the ship, passengers toward one end facing the other end and vice versa. Once everyone  is thoroughly strapped in, the operator throws a switch and the ship moves back  and forth like a swing; the bow slides up into the air, the ship swings back,  the stern slides up into the air and back; the arc gets wider and wider till it  reaches a full 180 degrees and the people strapped inside the ship are absolutely parallel with the ground (which is, one can't help reflecting, very  hard and unyielding). All of this looks, as I say, like a fairly easygoing  proposition. But at the top of each 180-degree arc, the ship pauses for a millisecond — a millisecond  during which you can feel your guts and your spine and your pancreas and your  brain and, yes, your inner-ear fluid heeding the call of gravity and evincing  an irresistible desire to drop down onto that unyielding asphalt. 
             
            The economic advantage to Pirate is that you don't have to  go on it to find out how terrifying it is. As long as you're observing it from  in front, everything seems fine; but if you stand under the ship at one end of its arc and look upward as it swings  by, watch it heave itself into the sky in pursuit moving bodies, and see it  pause for that millisecond directly above you — this odd-shaped planetoid  weighing certainly a couple of tons — your nerve endings will get the message:  if the damn thing were to come loose from its hinges, not only would the people  inside it get atomized in the blink of an eye but the cleanup squad wouldn't  even need a body bag to take you away. 
             
            * * * 
             
            When Barbara was about ten, she went to a church fair and  rode a contraption called the Scrambler, which consisted of a lot of cars  hooked to the end of shafts that moved and shifted among each other on a level  plane, a sort of robotic square dance at high speed; the cars always seemed like  they were about to collide but missed each other by a few inches to go swooping  on to the next close call, and the next. So little Barbara climbed into this  thing, and the operator lowered the safety bar, and the ride started up and  accelerated, and the next thing she knew she was getting thrown around inside  the car like a test-crash dummy. Her body was too small to get a purchase on  the car's interior; her legs were bouncing all over the place, and her arms  were too short to get an effective grip on the safety bar. Today, she remembers  thinking in that strangely collected manner familiar to accident and crime  victims — that once she had been bounced out of the car, her first priority  would be to lie as flat on the ground as possible so that the other car could  pass over without mangling her. 
             
            Luckily, the operator noticed what was happening in her car  and quickly brought the machine to a halt. "The funny thing was,"  Barbara recalls, "the other people on the ride seemed annoyed with me for  ruining their fun." 
             
            Now Barbara is a grown-up with a daughter of her own -Elizabeth,  who is nine. And here the three of us are wandering around the Fun Zone looking  for cheap mechanical thrills. One of the first rides we observe is almost a  dead ringer for the Scrambler that Barbara remembers so well; and as we watch  it go through its paces, we notice that a little girl in one of the cars is  having the same problem Barbara experienced at the long-ago church fair. The  operator sees the child's distress, stops the ride, directs his second banana  to get into the car with the girl and hold her steady, boots the mechanism back  into action, and continues it on its program of near-collisions. 
             
            Farther along, Elizabeth spots a miniature roller coaster  ride called the Hi Miler — identical in all but name to the ubiquitous Wild  Mouse. Miniature it may be, but it still whips people around banked curves at  speeds that make them think their spines are going to snap in two. For a  moment, Elizabeth seems determined to go on it — somewhat to her mother's  chagrin, because the ride is dramatic and powerful enough that she can't, in  good conscience, allow her daughter to go unaccompanied. I toy with the idea of  volunteering to take Barbara's place but decide that, in this feminist age,  such gallantry would be tantamount to chauvinism and, therefore, not appropriate.  So Barbara remarking that "I'd rather have someone run a spear through my  left shoulder" — gets in line with Elizabeth. As the line nears the gate,  Elizabeth begins to have second thoughts. "I want to think it over,"  she tells Barbara solemnly, and they both withdraw. It goes without saying that  the more you think something like this over, the less likely it is you'll be  foolish enough to follow through. Barbara is saved. 
            
             
            Right next to the Hi Miler is a ride with no name: peer as we might into the complicated stippling  of light bulbs and raised metal designs that cover its surface, Barbara and I  can't see a name anywhere. This is an ominous touch; but otherwise, the ride  seems well below midpoint on the terror scale. Pursuing some kind of "Surf's  up!" theme (to judge by its filigree symbolism of waves and sun and  beaches), it consists of one long car that moves in a wavy circle around a  track; riders are seated so they face backward as they go crashing about the  circuit. No big deal. Elizabeth gets on, and Barbara and I feel few  compunctions about letting her ride alone. Soon there are enough customers to  justify a go-round, and the operator sets the ride in motion. The interesting  fillip here is that after the ride has gathered a good head of steam, the  operator hits a toggle that causes a black tarp, previously furled along the  inside rim of the car, to go shooting up and over the passengers, completely  enclosing them. A moment later, he makes the tarp furl back into its original  position, then repeats the action. During the moments when we can see her,  Elizabeth is grimly clutching the safety bar with a determined look on her  face. 
             
            "She isn't enjoying this at all," Barbara comments  resignedly. 
             
            "That tarp thing seems a little chancy," I observe.  "Like, what if it got snagged on something — or someone?" 
             
            "It's the sort of thing you're better off not thinking  about too much, I guess," Barbara sighs. 
             
            * * * 
             
            When I was growing up and attending county fairs, the ne plus ultra of carnival rides was the  Hammer — an exceedingly scary machine consisting of twin shafts with revolving  cars attached to each end that would crash past each other; riders were  buffeted about in spirals. In one scene in the movie Under the Volcano, set in Mexico in the late '30s, Albert Finney  gets on a Hammer-type ride at a Day of the Dead carnival. Extremely inebriated,  he was sent caroming around inside the car like a rag doll. Director John  Huston is well known for his conscientious research, so I'm confident that the  Hammer — or something closely resembling it — existed at this early point.  Today you can probably search a given carnival from one end to the other  without finding a surviving example of this piece of nefarious machinery; but  that doesn't mean it has disappeared. It has simply been upgraded and  transformed into more powerful, more imposing forms of structural derring-do —  for instance, here at the Fun Zone, a ride called Kamikaze. 
             
            The ride's name presents a challenge that I, for one, will  gladly take lying down: all the money in the world couldn't induce me to  actually clamber aboard this thing, even though, at rest — like Pirate — it  doesn't look like any big deal. What you see are two gigantic shafts standing  at right angles to the ground; attached to the lower end of each shaft is a  large car, capable of seating 16 people, each car enclosed at the top by a  cage. As passengers file on, the ride seems to be of fairly modest proportions  simply because: (1) it isn't moving, and (2) with the cars resting on the ground,  the full height of its arc isn't apparent. Once everyone is tightly screwed in,  the operator makes the shafts swing — one car going this way, the other that  way. Like Pirate, the arc increases bit by bit; unlike Pirate, it doesn't reach  its maximum effectiveness at 180 degrees — indeed, at 180 degrees the  "fun" has barely started. The shafts accelerate, the arc increases  past the 180-degree mark, and the cars swoop through the air in full circles,  an unbroken 360-degree course, passing each other by a hair's breadth at the  very top. If that millisecond's pause at the top of the Pirate course seemed  troubling, consider this: the Kamikaze operator makes these two cars come to a  full stop at the very top of the circle, so the passengers hang upside down in the  blue sky, with only straps and safety bars preventing them from falling onto  the cagework ceiling and only the cagework keeping them from falling to the  unyielding ground. Then the cars are allowed gently to start sliding back down  the circle in the opposite direction, so that passengers who were swooping  face-front a moment ago are now traveling backward; more acceleration is laid  on, and the machinery gives off a rising whine that you probably will want to  believe is all part of the show. Then the cars are brought to a halt at the top  of the circle again. From down here, I see ocean mist drifting in curlicues  through the summer blue and imagine that it will waft in through the cage,  depositing moisture on the passengers, cooling them off a bit in preparation  for one last suicidal career through empty space before the cars are allowed to  submit to gravity, decrease their arcs, come to a halt at the bottom, and  disgorge their victims. 
             
            * * * 
             
            At smaller fairs and parking-lot carnivals, the rides  usually belong to and are maintained and operated by a single traveling  amusement company or "show"; at a major event like the Del Mar Fair,  several such companies come together, each bringing a handful of mechanical  diversions, and set up shop in competition with one another. Each company  employs a number of permanent workers who travel with the show from fair to  fair (temporary, spot help for minor jobs is picked up in each city). You see  these guys every year — skinny, shaggy, blue-collar types, with wraparound  shades perched on sunburned noses; they smoke a lot and seem pretty tough and  unforthcoming. 
             
            Steve Cimino, a full-time worker, has been with B&B  amusements since 1985, when the show played a carnival in his home town of  Santa Maria, and Steve, at the time, about 20 years old and out of work, was  hired on just to help tear down the bumper-car ride. Steve wangled a permanent  berth with B&B and within a few months became foreman of the show's  bumper-car team. Today, he crisscrosses six Western states nine months of the  year with B&B, serving as an operator on the Gravitron, the Himalaya, and  other rides, including the Zipper. When I finally get a chance to chat with  him, he's about to go on a break and is perfectly willing to tell me whatever I  might like to know. First, I ask him what happened to his black partner,  working the Zipper with him. He is now nowhere in evidence. 
             
            "I had to fire him off the ride," Steve explains,  lighting a cigarette. "I mean, I didn't fire him; my boss did. See, it's  real important on these rides to always be paying attention to what's going on.  Now, the Zipper has this tendency, when you're loading people on it, to shift  up a little bit; the weight of the people makes the chain move up a notch — and  if you're not on the lookout for that, one of those cars can hit someone on the  head. So this guy, I had to keep yelling at him to watch what was going on. I finally  decided he wasn't interested enough in taking care of business, so I talked to  my boss, and my boss fired him off the ride. He's still with the show, though;  he's just working a different job. 
             
            "Our show has two Zippers, two Gravitrons, two Tilt-0-Whirls,  a Himalaya, an Orbiter, two Loop-O-Planes, a Sea Dragon, a new ride called the  Global Wheel, a Round Up, and an SDC Coaster we bought used and rebuilt in  winter quarters, which is in Yuma. Two months out of every year, we're in  winter quarters, rebuilding and repainting the rides. This winter we also  rebuilt the Zippers and the Sea Dragon — but really, we work on all the rides,  rebuilding and repainting them. Every year the owner has to get a license for  each ride that allows him to keep operating it. 
             
            "Most of the rides are mounted on trailers; at the end  of a fair, you tear 'em down, collapse 'em onto the bed, pack 'em up, and a big  rig hauls 'em to the next show. The people who work on the show hitch rides  with the truck drivers, or else they drive their own cars from fair to fair.  Hardly anyone ever gets stranded. Most of the jumps from one town to another  aren't that long; the longest jump we've got to make this year is a pretty big  one, though, from Lancaster [California] to Salt Lake City. 
             
            "It takes something like four hours to assemble the  Zipper, which is about average for that kind of ride. Kiddy rides usually take  less time, but a roller coaster'll take you a day and a half. Every morning an  inspector comes around and signs off your inspection sheet so you can keep  running; and there are safety meetings for all the operators once a week, where  the inspectors warn you about stuff you may be doing wrong and bring you up to  date on accidents that have happened you may not have heard about and how they  could have been prevented. Me, I have a pretty good safety record. I've had  people get little cuts and scrapes, but that's about it -nothing major.  Sometimes I'll see someone hanging around the ride, you know, like they want to  go on it but they don't want to go on it. And I'll tell 'em, 'Hey, go ahead and  try it, and if you don't like it, I'll stop.' It's no big thing; I stop the  ride for people all the time. 
             
            "When we're at a fair, we're all pretty much on our own  when it comes to eating and sleeping and all that. Some fairgrounds, if you  want to take a shower, you have to use a hose or something. Here we've got it  pretty good, because the races aren't on and so they let us use the jockey  quarters over by the track for showers and stuff. We eat whatever we can get,  which usually means buying food at the concessions — which is kind of a drag,  because the food's expensive, and it's not that great for you; you end up  eating a lot of hot dogs. Sometimes I like to leave the fair and eat at a  restaurant, like a Denny's or someplace, but we're kept pretty busy, and so  it's hard to get the time away. 
             
            "Some of the workers have mobile homes they tow from  one fair to the next, but I sleep on my ride. Sometimes I stay in a motel, but  that's a luxury. Here, I'm sleeping on the Zipper every night. Which is okay,  because then when I get up, I can take care of the ride first thing — keep it  lit, keep it running. Because you want to have the ride ready to roll when the  fair opens for the day. Like, if I'm still fiddling with the bulbs and that  other Zipper is taking in all kinds of money — it belongs to another show — my  boss'll come over and say, 'Why aren't you open yet?' It's not like he's trying  to rush me; he wants the ride to be in good shape, too. It's just that you need  to get it lit, get it open, keep it running. 
             
            "I used to go on carnival rides the whole time I was  growing up, and I still do. Kamikaze? Sure, I've been on it. There really  aren't any rides I'm afraid to go on or wouldn't go on. The only rides I won't  go on are like the fun house and glass house rides — not because they're scary  or I don't think they're safe, they just don't interest me. 
             
            "It's a hard life, I can tell you chat," he goes  on. "I mean, it's a good life — you get a lot of freedom — but you have to  work long hours, and the pay isn't much. Me, I make $225 a week nine months out  of the year. That's okay, though. A lot of people complain about the money, but  I figure the main thing is, we're here to do a good job and show people a good  time. If the people are having fun, then I'm having fun." 
             
            Later, I catch sight of Steve working the Himalaya, which is  a lot like the ride with no name that Elizabeth went on, except that instead of  a tarp springing out at the operator's whim, the car simply glides through a  tunnel on the back stretch for a less capricious night-and-day effect. I see  now that when he's working a ride, Steve is always in motion. On the Zipper,  he's bopping at the control panel; here, his long, rubbery limbs and torso are  constantly moving, flexing, almost dancing to the blast of music from the  speaker system and to the rhythm of the unseen gears and gizmos and driveshafts  and sprockets. He goes daddy-long-legging up and down the ramp while the  passengers are climbing on, he slaps a hand on the safety bars to ensure that  they're clapped on tight; then one of his skinny arms with a spidery hand  snakes behind him toward the onlookers and flutters in a come-hither way, as  though to say, "Come on, come on, plenty more room." Then the ride  starts, slowly at first, and he stands, legs sprawled out, slapping each car as  it passes by, slapping each safety bar; his free arm snakes out behind him to  beckon onlookers for the next go-round. As the ride gathers speed, he slaps,  slaps, slaps, and I'm trying to remember what this reminds me of, and then I've  got it: he's like a bigger kid taking care of younger kids on one of those  public-park merry-go-rounds made of cast iron; the bigger kid slaps the bars of  the contraption, pushes, pushes, accelerates the mechanism until it's going too  fast and he has to stop slapping it or wreck his hands. 
             
            * * * 
             
            I saw the best minds of my generation destroyed by madness,  starving hysterical naked, dragging themselves down the negro streets at dawn  looking for an angry fix, angeiheaded hipsters crooning for that ancient  heavenly connection to the starry dynamo in the machinery of night....What  sphinx of cement and aluminum bashed open their skulls and ate up their brains  and imagination? 
              Moloch! Moloch! 
            — Allen Ginsberg, "Howl" 
                      As the sun passes through the gathering coastal mist toward  the sea, and darkness spreads from the Fun Zone shadows, more and more people  are getting off work or finishing their weekend errands and collecting the kids  and motoring out to Del Mar and jamming their way into the parking lot and  riding the jitney bus to the nearest fairgrounds entrance and ambling down past  the Don Diego clock tower to the Fun Zone and purchasing coupons and lining up  in front of the rides and actually climbing onto them, and the operators are  therefore having less occasion to let their machines stand idle; so the rides  are looping and bursting and arcing and accelerating and ricocheting and  near-colliding almost nonstop. This is when the Fun Zone is revealed most  especially to be an encampment of insane machinery: you look around and see  gigantic phalanges and pistons and throw rods and flywheels turreting and  spinning, amid a cacophony of high-volume pop music and engine noise that would  make Charles Ives himself cringe. 
             
            When night falls, the strings and swirls and kaleidoscopes  of electric bulbs festooned on the spokes and wheels and rims and bulkheads of  the rides, rather than illuminating the machines to which they're attached,  make them almost invisible — your eyes become hypnotically fixed on the lights  themselves, and the metal structures they clothe are nothing but dark gravitational  fields that make oblique and highly ominous impressions on the senses. It's as  though a star had gone dead at its core, leaving only a thin magmatic crust of  flame gouts as a reminder of its existence. 
             
            It's also like that  scene in Fritz Lang's Metropolis,  where the factories and smokestacks and filing workers coalesce into a  death's-head Moloch visage. In the nighttime Fun Zone, screams burst in great  waves from the invisible, swooping enclosed spaces of the rides while  multicolored electricity burns in streamers. There's something definitively  insane going on here; it's almost enough to turn you Amish. Here's the demonic,  hubristic impulse behind the Industrial Revolution laid bare, caught in a drop  of amber. Not once have I concerned myself with the particulars of  "safety"  for when it comes to  brainless but powerful machines, airplanes or automobiles or carnival rides,  under even the most painstaking circumstances, safety becomes a concept so  relative as to be meaningless and, if you're in the mood for gallows humor,  laughable. With carnival rides, it seems impossible that any greater care is  taken to ensure that they're "safe" than is taken with passenger  airplanes; and how many weeks go by that you don't pick up the daily rag and  read all about one of those shearing off a wing and plunging to the cold hard  ground, with no survivors? Or a rogue train plowing through a block of houses?  The Industrial Revolution gave mankind a robot twin for life, a dumb nuts-and-bolts  Gargantua who generally does as he is bid but demonstrates again and again that  he has a haywire, utterly unpredictable life of his own. Here in the Fun Zone,  we elect to disport ourselves carelessly with this twin and damn the  consequences (full speed ahead). 
             
            And here are some forlorn souls standing in front of  Kamikaze watching their loved ones fly bleating through the empty night: a riot  of electricity glares across their upturned, anxious faces, and if you didn't  know better, you might think they were watching an airliner glide into a row of  buildings. 
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